Smith Blade Pro: How to Disassemble and Reassemble

This video shows how to take apart and put back together your Smith Blade Pro for maintenance and cleaning.

NOTE: The torque specifications are 0.2nm for the hinge pin 0.5nm for all other screws.

Transcript:

Hi, I’m Ben, and I’m the lead designer of the Smith Blade. Today, I’m going to show you how to disassemble and reassemble yours.

When you receive your Smith Blade, it will arrive in its box with the knife front and center. Inside the box, you’ll also find spare bits and your Bit Flag driver. This is the tool we’ll use to both disassemble and reassemble the knife. The Bit Flag driver, with the included T8 bit, is the only tool needed to fully take apart the Smith Blade.

The Smith Blade is held together with seven screws: two for the belt clip, three that hold the knife body together, and two that hold the detent plate in place.

We’ll start with the belt clip. This is typically removed if you want to change clip position or install a deep carry clip. Remove the T8 bit from the driver and insert it into the front side, with the thick side of the Bit Flag toward the back. This prevents damage to the thin torque-limiting section.

Start by removing the two rear belt clip screws. These two screws are identical to each other and are different from every other screw in the knife. They can be installed in either belt clip position.

To fully disassemble the knife, remove the three body screws. Start with the front hinge pin screw. When this screw is removed, the knife may pop open slightly depending on component tolerances. This is normal.

Next, remove the two rear body screws. These two screws are also identical to each other and different from every other screw in the knife.

Once all three body screws are removed, gently separate the knife. You can lift the front using the side of your finger, then carefully wiggle the back apart by holding the top and bottom until it separates.

Now we can disassemble the blade pack. Start by removing the bearing. Then carefully remove the blade. The blade is very sharp, so handle it carefully. I recommend holding it by the top of the fuller and the flipper tab and lifting it straight up. Set it aside safely.

Next, remove the two alignment pins. The front and rear pins are identical and interchangeable.

Lift the front scale and push the hinge pin out. This exposes the lower bearing, which can now be removed.

There are also two hardened stainless steel shims that protect the titanium from the bearings. These often stay in place due to lubricant. If needed, you can gently pry them out using the tool.

Another removable component is the rear bit retention magnet. It may be held in place slightly by magnetism or lubricant, but gentle wiggling will remove it.

The fire steel is secured with a green retaining compound to prevent rattling, but it can be replaced if necessary. The carbide glass breaker is permanently bonded in place and should not need replacement. The bubble level is press-fit and may not reinstall securely if removed. The bit retention spring is spot welded and is not user-serviceable. Do not attempt to pry or bend it.

You’ll notice two screws still installed in the rear scale. These hold the detent plate. The detent plate is hardened steel and contains the detent ball that creates the ratcheting action during opening. It typically does not require service, but it can be removed for deep cleaning by removing the two screws. These screws are identical to each other and different from all other screws in the knife.

When the detent plate is removed, be careful not to bend the lock bar. Normally, the detent plate and blade limit lock bar movement, but when disassembled, it can be bent and permanently damaged.

If you have a Founders Edition Smith Blade, you may see internal machined signatures from James and myself. You will also see coded information that identifies the exact date and time your knife was manufactured, along with the revision and machine used. Revisions may differ between parts because components are updated independently.

At this point, your knife should be fully disassembled. Now we’ll reassemble it.

Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. There are four screw types: long rear body screws, medium belt clip screws, short detent plate screws, and the hinge pin screw. All screws except the hinge pin are M2.5. The hinge pin is M3.

Start by reinstalling the detent plate. It slots into place, and the two screws install from the front. Do not fully torque them yet.

Next, start assembling the blade pack. Place the front scale face down and insert the hinge pin with the Hacksmith logo facing up. The flat on the hinge pin should always face toward the rear of the knife during assembly.

Install one hardened shim over the hinge pin. Then install the first bearing with the exposed cups facing down. Install the two alignment pins, one front and one rear.

Carefully install the blade and rotate it into the closed position. Recheck hinge pin orientation if needed.

Install the second bearing with the cups facing up. Then install the second hardened shim.

To install the rear bit retention magnet, place it on the end of a bit and drop it into position.

Install the rear scale, making sure all pins and the hinge pin seat correctly. Wiggle gently until everything aligns.

Install the hinge pin screw loosely to hold the assembly together. Then install the rear body screws and tighten them using two-finger torque on the Bit Flag.

Now switch to the side of the Bit Flag labeled “PIN” and tighten the hinge pin until the flag straightens and aligns with the lower section. Do not over-bend the Bit Flag. Over-bending can break it or overtighten the hinge pin. If you do break it, we provide an at-home printable replacement designed for FDM printers using PLA.

Verify knife function. If the lock bar does not fully engage, adjust the detent plate. Open the knife and place it safely on a surface. Slightly loosen the detent plate screws, then retighten using two-finger torque on the thick side of the Bit Flag.

Finally, reinstall the belt clip in your preferred position. Align it straight and tighten using two-finger torque.

You have now successfully disassembled and reassembled your Smith Blade. If you’d like to learn more, check out our other Smith Blade tutorials.